Lingaraj Temple, Bhubaneswar: Odisha's Sacred Landmark

What the name means

Lingaraj means "king of lingas," and the deity here is worshipped as the Lord of the three worlds, known as Tribhuvaneswara. The name of the city comes from the same root. Bhubaneswar means "lord of the earth" or "lord of the three worlds."

Before the city had that name, tradition called this region Ekamra Kshetra, "the sacred field of the single mango tree." The old texts describe it as one of the most beautiful places on earth.

A legend of the single mango tree

According to the local tradition recorded in the Ekamra Purana, Shiva once told Parvati that Ekamra Kshetra was his favorite place. Curious, Parvati went there in the disguise of an ordinary cowherd woman to see for herself.

Here, the story says, two demon brothers named Kirti and Vasa troubled the people and tried to take her by force. Parvati destroyed both. Then, delighted by the place, she stayed. In some versions, Shiva joined her, and the lingam that stands here is the sign of his presence.

Different sources tell the story with different details. It is best held as local tradition, and it explains how a hill of old shrines became a pilgrimage center.

A lingam that is shared

One of the most unusual things about Lingaraj is the way it is worshipped. The deity is revered as Harihara, a form that joins Hari (Vishnu) and Hara (Shiva) in one. The lingam is traditionally said to be self-manifested, and it is bathed with water, milk and other offerings.

This shared worship is visible in the rituals. At most Shiva temples, tulsi leaves are not offered, because tulsi is tied to Vishnu worship. At Lingaraj, the practice is said to be different, and tulsi is offered along with bel leaves, as a sign of the combined form. This is a local custom, and practice should be checked with the temple on the day you visit.

The link with Odisha's great Vishnu temple at Puri is part of the same story. Many people see Lingaraj and Jagannath as two halves of the region's faith, and the traditions of each touch the other.

The architecture

The temple is built in the Kalinga style, which developed in Odisha in the early medieval period. It is made of sandstone and laterite, and its tower is one of the great landmarks of the style.

The main tower, called the rekha deula, curves gently inward as it rises. Its sides are ribbed in vertical lines and covered in sculpture, and it is topped by a round, ribbed stone disc called the amalaka. Heights quoted for the tower vary between sources, from around 40 to 55 meters, so treat the number as approximate.

The temple is traditionally dated to around the 11th century and linked with the Somavamsi dynasty. The construction is commonly credited to Jajati Keshari, and finished under his successors, though accounts differ on the exact kings and years.

The compound is large, with a high wall around it and a great many smaller shrines inside. The number is commonly given as over a hundred, though sources vary. The halls leading to the sanctum are arranged in a line, one behind the other, each with its own roof. The layering of the roofs, rising toward the main tower, is a striking feature, and the stonework on every surface is detailed and varied.

Festivals

Two festivals stand out.

• Maha Shivratri. This is the biggest festival of the year at Lingaraj. In the evening, a great lamp known as the Mahadeepa is lit at the top of the tower and is visible across the area. Thousands of devotees fast and keep vigil through the night.
• Ashokashtami and the Rukuna Rath Yatra. In the spring, the processional deity of Lingaraj is taken in a chariot to another temple in the city, in a festival often described as a smaller counterpart to the Rath Yatra of Puri. The exact dates follow the lunar calendar, so they change each year.

Planning a visit

Where: The old town of Bhubaneswar, the capital of Odisha.

How to reach it: Bhubaneswar has its own airport and a major railway station, and is well connected by road to Puri, Konark and Cuttack.

An important note on entry: The inner temple is open to Hindus only. Non-Hindu visitors cannot enter the main shrine, but there is a viewing platform outside the walls where they can see the tower and the compound. Rules can change, so check locally. This is an old and strictly observed custom here.

Rules inside: Photography is generally not allowed inside the temple, and phones and bags are usually deposited at a counter outside. Dress modestly, remove footwear, and follow the priests' guidance. Our guide to what to wear and avoid at a Shiva temple applies here as well.

Timings: The temple is usually open from early morning until late evening, with breaks during the day for rituals. Timings and special arrangements vary, so check locally.

Time needed: At least two hours for the temple and the surrounding streets.

Nearby: The Bindu Sagar lake beside the temple, the Mukteshvara and Rajarani temples, the Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves, and, a day trip away, Puri and the Sun Temple at Konark.

Where it sits

Lingaraj is one of the great Shiva temples of the east, though it is not one of the twelve Jyotirlingas. Its importance comes from its history, its architecture and its unbroken worship over many centuries.

What you take away

Standing in the narrow lanes outside, with the tower rising above the roofs and the sound of bells carrying from inside, you can feel how old this place is. It has been a center of worship for roughly a thousand years, and it still works the way it always did, a crowd of people, a few simple offerings, and a lingam at the center of it all.