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Temples

Trimbakeshwar Temple: Source of the Godavari River

6 min read

In the Nashik district of Maharashtra, at the foot of the Brahmagiri hills, there is a black stone temple where the lingam is not one pillar of stone but three. And just beyond it, in the hills above, a river that will cross much of peninsular India begins as a trickle.

The temple is Trimbakeshwar. It is counted among the twelve Jyotirlingas, and it is closely tied to the Godavari, one of the great rivers of the Deccan. If you are drawn to places where a temple and a river share one story, this is one of the finest.

What the name means

Trimbakeshwar means "the lord of the three eyes" or "the lord with three eyes." Trimbaka is an old name of Shiva, and it appears in a well-known Vedic verse, the Tryambakam mantra, which is also called the Maha Mrityunjaya mantra. The name and the mantra are tied together in many devotees' minds, so Trimbakeshwar is often visited by people who chant it.

Many devotees also connect the "three" in the name with the three-part lingam described below.

The lingam that is three

The first thing visitors tend to remember is the sanctum. At the centre is a shallow depression in the floor of the sanctum, and rising from it are three small lingam-like forms. Tradition holds that they represent Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, so that the shrine honours all three in one place. Water is said to seep around them, and devotees describe the sight as quiet and unusual.

This is different from most Jyotirlinga shrines, where a single lingam is the focus. Because of that, Trimbakeshwar is often described as a place where the three great forms are worshipped together. Devotees of Shiva consider him the central figure of the shrine, and the interpretation of the three forms can differ between teachers.

On special occasions, the lingam is adorned with a crown, called a mukut, which is described in tradition as set with precious jewels. You may hear that a famous diamond is among them. Accounts vary and the details are not something a visitor can verify, so it is best treated as local lore.

The legend of the Godavari

The temple's best-known story explains why the Godavari rises here. It is told in the Puranas and in local tradition, with variations.

In the story, a sage named Gautama lived in the Brahmagiri region with his wife Ahalya and many disciples. During a time of famine, the area around his ashram stayed fertile, thanks to a boon, and many people took refuge there. Other sages grew jealous. In one telling, they arranged for a cow to wander into Gautama's field, and when he tried to shoo it away, the cow died.

Killing a cow is a grave sin in the tradition, and Gautama was told he must atone. He turned to Shiva, praying for a way to be freed. Shiva, moved by his penance, was asked to bring the Ganga to wash away the sin. The Ganga came down as the Godavari, here also called Gautami, after the sage. The tradition adds that Shiva agreed to remain at the site as Trimbakeshwar.

Other versions differ in the cast and the details, so treat this as the broad shape of a living story. The heart of it is the idea of a river arriving to cleanse, and a temple standing at the point where it appeared.

The river and the hills

The source of the Godavari is linked in tradition with the Brahmagiri hill. Visitors can climb stone steps up the hill to reach the place known as Gangadwar, where the river is said to emerge. The climb is a few hundred steps, and many people find it worthwhile for the view alone. Others pause at the Kushavarta, a stone-built tank in the town where the river's water collects and where pilgrims bathe and perform rituals. It is considered a sacred bathing spot.

If you visit, confirm current access and conditions at Brahmagiri and the Kushavarta with the temple trust or local guides, since they can change with the season and the crowd.

The temple building

The present temple is dated in common accounts to the eighteenth century and is usually attributed to Peshwa Balaji Baji Rao, also known as Nanasaheb. It is built of dark stone and is regarded as a fine example of the region's temple architecture. The walls and spire are carved with intricate figures, and the site sits within a ring of hills that makes the approach quite striking.

Histories of older shrines on the site are not clear, and writers differ on dates. If the architecture interests you, a local guide or the temple trust can explain more.

Kumbh Mela and the Godavari

Trimbakeshwar is also linked with the Kumbh Mela. The Nashik and Trimbakeshwar region hosts one of the great Kumbh gatherings, known locally as the Simhastha, which comes around roughly once every twelve years. During that time, large numbers of pilgrims bathe in the Godavari. We do not give dates here, since they are fixed by astrological calculations and change from cycle to cycle. Check official announcements if you are planning for it.

Special rituals performed here

Trimbakeshwar is known as a centre for certain traditional rites, including Narayan Nagbali, Kaal Sarp Shanti and rituals for departed ancestors. Priests in the town perform these for families who travel specifically for them.

A word of caution is in order. These rites are matters of faith and family tradition, and some are surrounded by strong claims and high fees. No ritual can guarantee a particular outcome in your life. If you decide to take part, approach the temple trust's official counters or a priest you have verified, ask for the details and the cost in writing, and be wary of anyone who approaches you on the street with urgent warnings or special deals.

Visiting Trimbakeshwar

Practical details change, so please confirm locally before you plan.

  • Getting there. Trimbakeshwar is roughly thirty kilometres from the city of Nashik, which is the usual base. Nashik has road and rail links, and Trimbakeshwar is reached by road.
  • Sanctum access. Entry to the inner sanctum is reserved for Hindus under the temple's rules, and others can view the temple from outside. Rules on photography and mobile phones are strict inside, so check at the entrance.
  • Dress. Modest clothing is expected. For abhishekam inside the sanctum, a traditional dress code may apply. Our guide on what to wear and avoid in a Shiva temple covers the general etiquette.
  • Crowds. Mondays, festival days and the month of Sawan are busy, and queues can be long. A weekday outside the festival season is calmer.
  • Weather. The hills around Trimbakeshwar turn green during the monsoon, which many visitors find beautiful, though the steps can be slippery.
  • Health and safety. If you plan to climb Brahmagiri, wear sturdy footwear, carry water and go at your own pace. If you have a health condition, plan with your doctor first.

What Trimbakeshwar leaves with you

The place holds two ideas side by side. In the sanctum, three forms are honoured as one. Outside, a river begins in a hillside.

Perhaps that is the quiet lesson of Trimbakeshwar. The great things in life tend to start small, in a quiet corner, as something easy to walk past. And the temple has stood at that corner for centuries, so that people would stop.

Another Jyotirlinga where water and pilgrimage meet: Read: Baidyanath Temple, Deoghar: The Healing Jyotirlinga.

Planning a pilgrimage? Download the free 12 Jyotirlingas Travel Companion from our Downloads page.

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