Tungnath: The Highest Shiva Temple in the World

One of the five Kedars

Tungnath is the third of the Panch Kedar, the five sacred Shiva temples of the Garhwal region. To understand it, you have to know the legend that ties all five together.

After the great war of the Mahabharata, the Pandavas were burdened with guilt for the lives lost, including those of their own kin. They wanted Shiva's forgiveness, and went to find him. Shiva, the story says, was not ready to grant it so easily. He avoided them, and finally took the form of a bull and hid among the cattle in the hills.

The second Pandava, Bhima, recognized him. As Shiva sank into the earth to escape, Bhima caught hold of the bull. Shiva vanished, but his body is said to have reappeared in five different places, and a temple was raised at each.

• Kedarnath, the hump.
• Tungnath, the arms.
• Rudranath, the face.
• Madmaheshwar, the navel.
• Kalpeshwar, the hair.

So when you stand at Tungnath, tradition says you are standing at the place where Shiva's arms appeared. The word tung means "high" or "tall," and nath means "lord." The name simply means "Lord of the heights."

A temple the Pandavas are said to have built

According to tradition, the Pandavas built the first temple here to honor Shiva. The temple that stands today is much later, and local accounts also link the revival of these shrines to Adi Shankaracharya, who is traditionally credited with re-establishing worship across the Himalayas. As with many old temples, the exact dates are uncertain, and the history is best held as tradition.

Chandrashila: a little higher

A short climb above Tungnath leads to Chandrashila, a summit at roughly 4,000 meters. The name means "moon rock." According to local tradition, it is where Lord Rama meditated after the war with Ravana, seeking peace. On a clear day the view from the top takes in some of the great peaks of the Himalaya, including Nanda Devi, Trishul, Kedarnath and Chaukhamba.

Most visitors who reach Tungnath continue to Chandrashila, and many do so before sunrise.

Planning a visit

Tungnath is much more accessible than Kedarnath or Amarnath, but it is still a mountain trek, and the weather decides everything.

The trek: The walk starts from Chopta, a meadow village often called the "mini Switzerland of India." From Chopta, a well-defined stone path climbs for about 3.5 kilometers to the temple, usually taking two to three hours, depending on your pace. The path is steep in sections but is one of the easier high-altitude treks. Chandrashila adds about another kilometer or two.

When to go: The temple is generally open from around May through early November, though exact dates depend on the snow and are announced locally. In winter, the area is covered in snow, the temple is closed and the deity is traditionally moved down to Mukkumath for worship. Early summer (May and June) and autumn (September to early November) are popular times, with the monsoon months often bringing rain and landslides on the approach roads.

How to reach Chopta: Chopta is usually reached by road from Rishikesh or Haridwar, via Rudraprayag and Ukhimath. The journey takes a full day by road. The nearest airport is Jolly Grant in Dehradun, and the nearest major railway station is Rishikesh. Road conditions in the mountains change often, so check before you leave.

What to carry: Warm layers, a rain jacket, sturdy shoes, a cap and sunscreen. The air is thin and the weather can change quickly, even in summer. Carry water, some snacks and a small offering of bel leaves and flowers, if you wish to make one.

Altitude: At around 3,680 meters, altitude sickness is possible, particularly if you rush. Walk slowly, drink water, rest when needed and turn back if you feel unwell. If you have a health condition, check with your doctor before you go.

Stay: Basic lodges and camps are available at Chopta and the villages nearby. There is no accommodation at the temple itself, so most visitors do the trek as a day trip from Chopta.

What stays with you

Most people who visit Tungnath remember the quiet more than anything. There are no big crowds like at the major pilgrimage sites, just the sound of wind, a bell, and the long view out across the ranges. In a tradition where Shiva is the lord of mountains, it feels right that one of his temples is simply a small stone shrine at the top of a climb, waiting for whoever is willing to walk.